FORD F250
BrakeSmart Controller Custom Install

Someone sent me this page and I've updated it with my comments in RED.

After reading many comments and reviews, primarily on RV.NET, I decided to purchase a BrakeSmart Controller. It seemed to get the best ratings and considering the price of the 5th wheel we'd be towing it just didn't make sense to me to buy anything but the best, just to save $200. After receiving the unit I decided to install the controller in the dash pocket since they were similarly shaped. I thought others might also be interested in a custom install so I took a few pictures and notes as I went along.

A word of CAUTION: This installation requires partial disassembly of your dash and drilling several holes into the BrakeSmart Controller case which probably will void your controller warranty, or worse, could destroy the controller if you're not careful. I tried to think of ways to attach it without drilling holes (duct tape, brackets, etc) but couldn't think of anything that would be 100% solid. These notes are for reference only as your situation may be different. I take zero responsibility if something goes wrong. Use at your own risk.

I installed the pressure hose and sensor per their instructions. Since I have an automatic I routed the wiring thru the firewall plug where the clutch would be with a standard transmission.

I have a custom conversion done to my F-350 and the upper dash is plastic. His second picture shows pushing a nut driver in between the dash sections to get the two upper screws out. Can't do that with a plastic upper dash.

You must first remove the dash component that contains the pocket. Mine was attached with (10) 7mm screws. Remove the litter bag holder (2 screws). Reach in and disconnect the wiring harness from the lighter then pop out the lighter base (it might be easier to pop the base out first). Remove the cup holder (2 screws on the sides, 2 screws inside on the top). Remove 2 screws along the bottom of the component.

Now comes the tricky part. There are still 2 screws holding the top of the component. They are underneath the overlapping dash component. Carefully pull on the right side of the overlapping component then along the bottom toward the steering wheel. Just pull it far enough away to get a 7mm socket underneath to remove the 2 remaining screws. I tried pulling mine further away but it didn't seem to want to give so I decided not to force it. Be careful not to scratch the pocket compartment. The pocket component has a small tit on the top, right side that rests inside a hole. It should now lift out.

Removing the upper dash is not straightforward.

• First of all I went to two Ford dealers who said the lower dash couldn't be removed. I talked the second guy into helping me.
• First you have to remove the radio to get to the two screws that secure the dash to the top of the radio area. Ford has a special tool for removing the radio. After the radio is out, look inside the dash and you will see two screws at the top of the radio compartment. Remove these screws.
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• Next, pull the upper dash out. You have to pull where the mounts are so you don't bend the dash.
• Unplug all the wires from the dash.
• Put the Truck in low gear to get the gearshift out of the way and remove the dash.

The cup holder also holds the lower dash in place.

• The cup holder has two screws in the front that you can see when it is open. You have to remove the panel that is below the cup holder in order to see the two screws that are under the holder.
• There are two screws that you will see when you remove the upper dash and two other screws that you will have to lay on the floor mats to see on the bottom of the panel.

I cut thsi pocket differently. I will include pictures of my final cut at the end of this article.

The pocket now needs to be cut off. I included a picture indicating the approximate size of the cutoff piece. I used a small saw at first but went to a Dremel. You'll find that the sides of the pocket are where the controller case touches as you get closer to a fit; the top and bottom will fit easily. Don't take too much off at first; better to make several cuts then to take off too much.

Remove the 4 screws from the back of the controller case and you'll see some areas on the inside where mounting screws can protrude without touching any internal components. Unfortunately I was too involved during this stage and forgot to take pictures of the inside. The drivers side is pretty straight forward. On the passengers side I inserted a screw in the small area above the red, manual brake switch. I couldn't get the drill inside to drill a hole below the switch. I used #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws.

I didn't like using screws to secure the controller. I used a bucksaw and coping saw to cut the pocket differently and then used silicon caulk to secure the controller. I'll provide pictures and details of my installation at the end of this article.

Now all you have to do is put it all back together. Here's some final shots.

The final look of what was done here looks great, but I didn't like using screws to mount my unit so I cut my pocket as follows:

• I cut my panel a further back than he did using a bucksaw. Then I cut notches in the sides using the buck saw first for the vertical cuts, then a coping saw for the bottom sideways cut.
• The controller is tapered, smaller in the front than in the back. The front of the controller fit in the back of the slot, but was too big to push all way through.
• I made additional cuts with the bucksaw to allow the pocket to spread in the back as I pushed the controller forward.
• Then I started using my coping saw to make the side notches deeper until the face of the controller looked good front of the dash panel.
• Then I used the buck saw to cut back ends of the pocket so the controller protruded about a quarter inch when it was pushed all way in.
• I pulled the controller out and pushed it back in with a quarter inch wide wood shim on the top and bottom. I didn't push it all way in, just enough until it was snug.
• Then I filled the gap between the controller and pocked with silicon caulk, pushed it in a little further, filled it again, etc, until it was all way in.
• Then I removed the shims and allowed the silicon to harden.

Here are some pictures of the finished installation from the inside of the pocket:

In this picture you can see how the pocket was cut to with a quater inch of the depth of the controller. You can also see how the side tabs were cut and how the slits were cut at the corners of the controller that allow the pocket to expand so the controller will fit.

The slits that you see on the underside of the controller pocket were cut with a bucksaw. Notice that the slits were spread slightly by the controller as it was pushed in from the back because the controller is too large for the pocket.

Just another look at the look at the side of the pocket which was notch with a bucksaw and coping saw to allow for the tabs of the controller to fit. also note the use of silicon caulk instead of screws to hold the controller in place.